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Plus a rare mushroom,‌ and where to try it
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Hi neighbors,


Did you remember to put your indoor plants outside to get a drink of water during the rain?


I’m Nathan Solis, your editor covering Koreatown, Pico Union and Westlake. I believe the best part about living anywhere in Los Angeles is the community that you build with your neighbors, and I'm looking forward to hearing from you about what makes our neighborhoods special.


Maybe that's resources for people who are dealing with hard times, tips about which side of the street to park on or the best places for a good pupusa/samgye-tang/arepa/bagel/pan dulce or whatever else makes a good day better.


Today, we're here to tell you about a bright spot: After struggling during the pandemic, restaurants are once again booming in Koreatown, which, according to city data, has recently seen more new business licenses than anywhere else in the city.



Jon Regardie / For The LA Local

Koreatown’s food frenzy: Nearly 100 new restaurants have opened since 2024

By Jon Regardie and Hanna Kang


Between the pandemic and recent ICE raids, LA restaurants have been hurting, and high-profile closures like Here’s Looking at You have made national news.  


But you may also have noticed new signs and grand openings in Koreatown lately, and the data bears that out: In 2024, 61 business licenses were issued here, more than any other neighborhood in LA, according to city Office of Finance data analyzed by Crosstown.



For Henry Delgado, who in June opened Buena Comida Mexicana on Western Avenue, the existing food scene and dense makeup of the neighborhood were the draw. 


"There's a lot of foot traffic here, a lot of families walking around, people getting their coffees in the morning. You don’t really see that in other cities anymore,” said Delgado, co-owner and manager of the family-run restaurant. “That’s the reason why I came here and had the motivation to open up here.”


The trend is continuing this year: Another 34 licenses have been issued to Koreatown restaurants so far in 2025. That is second only to downtown.


The data tracks with what longtime restaurant critic Merrill Shindler has witnessed. 


“It keeps growing,” said Shindler, whose credits include editing the Zagat Guide as well as writing for the Southern California News Group and The Eastsider. “I drive through K-town, and I cannot believe it: This is a new one. That’s a new one. That’s a new market.”


The thriving food scene, which draws serious foodies, along with Koreatown’s multicultural audience also appealed to chef Monica Kim, who opened Seogwan by Yellowcow KBBQ in June. But she also had concerns about competition, even as an experienced restaurateur.


“There are already so many Korean barbecue restaurants here,” said Kim, who has run Yellow Cow Korean BBQ in Gardena for nearly 30 years. 


Kim looked for a way to bring something different. She found it disappointing that most Korean barbecue restaurants serve the same simple side dishes, like a salad. 


“For us, the side dishes change every day,” she said. “I don’t think Korean cuisine is just one main dish. It’s when the main, the sides and the rice are in harmony.”


Her specialty is Pyeongyang naengmyeon, a North Korean cold noodle dish made with buckwheat noodles in a bland, icy meat broth.


While several local restaurants have started to serve the dish, most U.S. establishments stick to Hamheung-style naengmyeon, known for its stronger flavor.


“It took seven years to open Seogwan in LA, and we wanted to offer something that didn’t exist here yet,” Kim said.


Overall, business licences across LA have been declining steadily for a decade, but restaurants are an outlier, with the 742 issued in 2024 representing a 47.5% increase over the count in 2019, according to Office of Finance data (in some rare instances, the license is not for a new restaurant, but a transfer of ownership or other factor). In Koreatown, the number of new licenses plunged in 2022, but the current year’s count is nearing pre-COVID totals.

The roster of recent Koreatown arrivals also shows a breadth of options, from Gabin Korean Grill at Fourth and Western to a Filipino lechon spot on Third Street to Sushi Hanna located in a shopping center on Wilshire Boulevard to a Sweetgreen on Sixth Street.


The variety is no surprise to Shindler, who pointed back decades to when popular Italian spot Little Joe’s was smack in the middle of Chinatown.


“We live in a multiethnic city,” he said.


Variety is also visible within the Korean dining scene in the community. Schindler said personal favorites are Kobawoo House, which serves Korean-style pancakes, and Surawon Tofu House, which is known for making the tofu for its sundubu-jjigae in house.


How can a restaurant draw diners with so many choices and an influx of new eateries? It’s simple, said Elizabeth Hong, owner of Olympic Noodle. The restaurant continues to draw consistent crowds, even as it’s weathered major challenges like the ‘92 riots and COVID pandemic over its 44 years in operation. 


“We just focus on good service and good food, and we don’t skimp on seasoning,” she said. “No matter what new places open, our food still speaks for itself.”


WHAT'S GOING ON

🀄 On Saturday, Mahjong Market is returning to Open Market! Whether you're a seasoned pro or a beginner, players will rotate turns throughout the event so everyone can join in on the fun. The event runs from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., with coffee and sandwiches from Open Market available to enjoy. Tickets are $10 and can be purchased here.


🍰 Speaking of Open Market, they're taking pre-orders for Thanksgiving pies and desserts until Friday. Treat yourself and your guests to some delicious holiday sweets, including their calamansi pie, sweet potato cinnamon rolls and a Thanksgiving wine bundle. Orders can be placed online here or in store, and pick-up will be available on Nov. 25 and Nov. 26. 


🎨 Unleash your inner artist at Paint & Sip LA, hosted by the Black-woman-owned Demi Lauren Studios. All materials are included, plus a complimentary glass of wine or champagne to enjoy while you paint. You can check availability and purchase tickets, starting at $65, here.


🦃 The Pico Union Project will host its 12th annual "Faithsgiving" on Tuesday, Nov. 25, from 2:30-4:30 p.m. at 1153 Valencia St. The event will feature free turkeys, food and live music for the community. The nonprofit aims to distribute 1,000 turkeys this year and is currently collecting donations to help purchase them. You can donate and/or sign up to volunteer on the day of the event here.


🛒 Free grocery pop-ups are coming to Westlake! Distribution starts at 10 a.m. and everything is first-come, first-served while supplies last. Here is the list of pop-ups: 


  • Friday, Nov. 21: CHIRLA, 2533 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, 90057

  • Tuesday, Nov. 25: Casa Salazar, 2590 Arvia St., Los Angeles, 90065

  • Tuesday, Nov. 25: Toberman Recreation Center, 1725 Toberman St., Los Angeles, 90015


Have more community events you want to share? Reply to this email, or send them to nathan@thelalocal.org.

DON'T MISS

Gab Chabrán / LAist

Songi beoseot, or pine mushroom, has many fans around the world. And it just so happens to be in season now — that time of the year when it’s a bit colder, and you want to reach for an aromatic brothy soup. As LAist’s Gab Chabrán writes, “The prized funghi adds a floral, woodsy character that’s highly sought after in Korean cuisine,” and he sought out that flavor at Koreatown’s Jook Hyang on Olympic Boulevard.


“There was everything from minimalist porridge to opulent samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup with abalone) and galbi jjim (braised short ribs). I opted for the galbi jjim with abalone, a luxurious take on the classic that arrives sizzling in a black stone pot, crowned with thick mushroom slices and surrounded by a parade of banchan — kimchi, pickled radish, seasoned spinach and cilantro salads.”


Read more about his visit to the restaurant here




What’s your favorite spot for a cozy meal in Koreatown, Pico Union or Westlake? Reply to this email with your restaurant recommendation — or anything else you’d like us to know about the neighborhood. 


Andale pues,

 


Nathan Solis

Koreatown, Pico Union, Westlake Editor

The LA Local

P.S. Did you know you can now tell Google which news outlets you want to see first in your search results? Adding The LA Local (and other local nonprofit outlets) helps make sure our community’s stories stay visible. Here’s a link to add us.


We’re not here to drop in and cover communities — we’re here to build with them, to celebrate what's working, and to hold power accountable when it's not. This kind of journalism takes resources, patience, and partnership. It's why we're nonprofit, why neighborhood newsrooms are our foundation. Consider making a donation to power our newsroom.

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